Whether you’re celebrating a birthday, a promotion, or just having finally reached the end of a rough workday, there’s always a good reason to open a bottle of Champagne.
Champagne has a fascinating history; in this cold, northerly region, monks would bottle the wine when they thought it was finished fermenting, but in reality, the process was only halted as the yeast was too cold to continue converting sugar to alcohol and CO2. As the temperatures came up in the spring, the yeast re-activated, and that CO2 created by the second fermentation could no longer escape since the wine was in bottle, thus creating slightly fizzy wines.
Initially, this effervescence was considered a fault, but the style caught on, and in the 1800s they began making the bubbles more intentionally, with a measured amount of yeast. Advances from wood to coal-fired stoves in glass making also enabled Champagne producers to make the wines more fizzy, as the thicker bottles could withstand the pressure.
Some of the stars of Champagne include Dom Pérignon, who produced the first Blanc de Noirs (a white wine from black grapes) and the widow (Veuve) Clicquot who invented the riddling tables (“pupitres”) still in use today. While very large houses such as those two still dominate the industry, there is a growing base of drinkers seeking out “grower” Champagnes – Champagnes that are produced by the grape growers themselves. Thus, the wine goes through the entire process, from vine, to primary fermentation, to secondary fermentation, to lees ageing, all on one premise, allowing for a unique stylistic expression.
Albatross offers a full range of bubbles, but read on for my top picks!
My first pick: the Egly-Ouriet Grand Cru Brut, Champagne, France NV
This producer is a champion of Pinot Noir, proving that not all age-worthy Champagnes are Chardonnay-based. This blend is 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay, with the grapes sourced from the Grand Cru villages within Montagne de Reims. This Champagne is beautiful, with the classic Champagne notes of apple and citrus, complemented by warmer notes of apricot and spice as well.
My next pick: Jacquesson Cuvee 747 Extra Brut, Champagne, France
This bottle is a classic example of why grower Champagnes are on the rise. The assemblage is 45% Chardonnay, 31% Pinot Noir, and 24% Meunier, and each varietal brings its best. Chardonnay contributes the citrussy freshness, Pinot Noir the body, and Meunier the fruity softness. Try this wine with something salty, like fried chicken or French fries, or a creamy, soft cheese like Brie.
My final pick: Drappier
Drappier is one of my favorite growers in the Côte des Bar, a sub-region of Champagne known for ripe Pinot Noir. The Drappier Clarevallis Extra Brut features 75% Pinot Noir, resulting in a fuller bodied Champagne with gorgeous violet notes.
If you’re feeling very celebratory, go for the Drappier Carte d'Or Millesime Exception 2006 Magnum. This wine features notes of ripe stone fruits and toasty brioche.
P.S. In nearly 120 countries, producers of traditional method sparkling wines outside of Champagne, France are not allowed to use the term “Champagne” or “méthode champenoise” on their bottles. The United States is not one of those countries (ultimately, because we didn’t ratify the Treaty of Versailles which detailed rules around protecting designation of origin). Thus, companies already using the word “Champagne” in their marketing (such Miller High Life, “the Champagne of beers”) were grandfathered in, and can continue to use that word on their labels.
