Welcome to the explorer series! Each article will take a deep-dive into a wine region, helping you build your wine knowledge and get inspired to try new things.
Today’s installation will cover the Kemeū region of New Zealand. New Zealand's wineries are very diverse and special. They are the southernmost in the world (yes, further south than South Africa) and the first to see the sun each day due to the proximity to the International Dateline. The New Zealand wine industry is downright fledgling by global standards; it produces less than 1% of the world's total wine, and the first vintage was produced in 1839. Yet, in that relatively short time, New Zealand has truly made a name for itself in the wine community.
Yes, Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc is delicious, but New Zealand has so much more to offer. In the North Island, near the city of Auckland, lies the wine region often just referred to as “Auckland”, but encompasses several smaller regions, like Kemeū, Henderson, and Waimauku. This area is slightly warmer than other districts, and the focus is on Chardonnay. The warm, humid days, balanced by cooler nights and ocean breezes (due to the narrow shape of the island, no vineyard is too far from the sea) allow for a richer, riper style of Chardonnay that still retains freshness. The "ripeness" in this case comes from the fruit character (think pineapples and peaches) not the oak and winemaking influence (think the buttery, vanilla notes of a California Chardonnay).
One winery to know: Kumeu River. In the late 1800s, immigrants to New Zealand from Croatia who came to escape war and/or try to make their fortune in the gum fields eventually turned to grape growing, which they were significantly more familiar with than their English immigrant counterparts. Consequently, many of New Zealand's oldest wineries have deep Croatian roots, Kumeu River included. As is the case with many wineries, Kumeu River has been in the family for generations, but no nepotism here in selecting the winemaker - Michael Brajkovich (the current winemaker) was New Zealand's first Master of Wine.
Kumeu River’s Maté’s vineyard Chardonnay earned 100 points from James Suckling in 2020, and in 2024 it was served at Buckingham Palace when they hosted Emperor Naruhito of Japan. The Hunting Hill Chardonnay comes from the adjacent vineyard, and is an excellent opportunity to taste a Chardonnay whose quality rivals that of a Premier Cru Burgundy at a much more approachable price. This wine is mineral, focused, and refreshing, balanced by a ripe fruit character.Kumeū is just one of the many diverse and incredible wine regions New Zealand has to offer. I hope this little taste of Kiwi winemaking sparks your curiosity to learn more!
