Claude Dugat Griottes-Chambertin Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits, France 2023
Claude Dugat has long been a respected and beloved figure in Burgundy, and the wines produced at his eponymous domaine have captivated the world. Working alongside him for the better part of the last decade has been his son Bertrand and daughter Laetitia, to whom Claude turned over control of the estate with the 2015 vintage. While the Dugat family traces its roots in Gevrey back to the 19th century, it was not until 1955, when Claude’s father Maurice purchased the historic landmark Grange des Dimes and converted the stone barn into a winery that the family domaine was born. The family farms some six hectares throughout Gevrey.
The estate’s work has always been a family operation, now with Laetitia caring for the vines and Bertrand tending to duties in the cellar. Since 2013, the farming methods have shifted to an organic emphasis with the adoption of biodynamic principles as well. In the winery, a focus on purity has inspired decisions to restrict the use of sulfur, chaptalization, and acidification. With earlier harvesting, more restrained extraction, and a tempered oak influence, the new generation of Dugat wines are classic in style, striking a balance between power and finesse. The wines' clarity and precision express an element of polish rarely found in Gevrey-Chambertin.
"The 2023 Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru is a beauty, bursting with notes of plums, red berries, orange zest and rose petals. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and layered, it's suave and sensual, with polished tannins and a vibrant core of fruit, concluding with a perfumed finish. As usual, it's the most ethereal, elegant wine in the Dugat cellar." Wine Advocate 95-97
