Desire Lines Lichau Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Petaluma Gap, USA 2022

2022 Lichau Hill Cabernet Sauvignon proves one of my favorite wine rules – look to cool sites in warm years. 2022 was a warm and dry year, which brings a degree of richness and generosity to an otherwise classically built wine. The vines at Lichau Hill are relatively old for Cabernet, having been planted in 1999, and must be deeply rooted for how little irrigation they require. They weathered the heat dome of 2022 without any trouble, which came well before the fruit was in the ripening window. Raspberry, rose petal, and cedar leap from the glass, while spice, tobacco, and cassis lend an exotic flair to this opulent, concentrated, and fresh Cabernet. This wine makes the case that Lichau Hill Vineyard should be regarded as an iconic (and unmistakably distinctive) California Cabernet site.

"The 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon Lichau Hill Vineyard is seriously impressive. Bold and punchy, the 2022 is bursting at the seams with character. Wild cherry, cedar, dried herbs, pipe tobacco and incense soar from the glass. This site in the cold Petaluma Gap dealt with the stress of the growing season well, as 2022 Lichau Hill is drop-dead gorgeous. Readers should expect an old-school Cabernet Sauvignon that melds together bold fruit and strong savory notes." This is flat-out delicious. Vinous 94