Domaine Denis Mortet Les Champeaux, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, France 2023

A supremely talented vigneron, and currently at the helm of Denis Mortet, Arnaud Mortet is routinely praised for his work in the vineyards. Founded by his grandfather, Charles, in 1956, Arnaud took control in 2006 after the death of his legendary father, Denis. He continues his father's legacy of making refined, elegant wines along with his sister, Clemence, and his mother, Laurence.

Arnaud's wines are reaching new levels as the winemaker has been embracing more traditional vinification and viticulture techniques. The majority of the vineyard care is accomplished by hand, including horses plowing all 1er and Grand Cru vineyards to minimize soil compaction. Since 1996, chemical fertilizers and herbicides are avoided in the vineyards, using crop cover of chickweed to help provide health of the vines. Yields are kept very low, and small crates are used during harvest to protect the berries. In the cellar, grapes see gentle macerations, and a reduced percentage of new oak. The grapes are undergo a strict triple sorting upon arriving at the estate and the wines are bottled unfined and unfiltered. A perfectionist by nature, Arnaud is making superbly finessed and precise wines as he continues to evolve this domaine.

"The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champeaux ler Cru comes from a site with 70- to 80-year-old vines, worked by horse as it is not accessible by tractor (this has been done since 2008). This has a slightly reductive bouquet, though there is still a sizable concentration evident here. The palate is medium-bodied with a powerful opening, slightly confit-like red fruit, hints of marmalade and blood orange and a slightly more exotic, licorice-tinged finish. Very fine." Vinous 92-94