Domaine Dugat-Py Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Cote de Beaune, France 2023

Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2023

This is a very serious white Burgundy from one of Dugat-Py’s rare white-wine holdings. The fruit comes from about 0.4 hectares of roughly 55-year-old vines in Pernand-Vergelesses, acquired from the Gabriel Muscovac estate; Dugat-Py first bottled the parcel separately in 2011.  The 2023 is rich but beautifully controlled, showing peach, pear, quince, orange oil, white flowers, toasted bread, almond and baking spice. The palate is full, creamy and layered, but a lively acid spine keeps it fresh, finishing long, chalky and mineral. Charles Curtis MW gave it 96 points from Decanter, while William Kelley scored it 94–96.