Domaine Dugat-Py Les Referts Vieilles Vignes, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru, France 2023
Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru “Les Referts Vieilles Vignes” 2023
This is a particularly interesting white Burgundy from Dugat-Py, and one that the domaine itself seems especially proud of. It is 100% Chardonnay from the Les Referts climate, with the domaine’s old-vine selection adding concentration and depth. The 2023 is notable because Dugat-Py harvested early to preserve freshness despite the warm vintage. The result is much more focused than you might expect: lemon zest, white flowers, pear, citrus and stony/chalky minerality, with a taut, precise palate and a saline finish. The domaine uses only about 10% new oak, allowing the fruit and Puligny terroir to take center stage.
One interesting distinction: Les Referts is a négociant wine, but the Dugat-Py team works the parcel and harvests the fruit themselves. That makes it a very hands-on expression of the domaine's style. A focused, mineral and beautifully precise Puligny with much less oak influence than some Dugat-Py whites. Of the three you've asked about, I'd rank Les Referts as the most linear and classic, while Champ Gain is richer and more powerful and Folatières is more aromatic.