Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Clos des Ducs, Volnay Premier Cru, France 2022

We’ve been fans of Domaine Marquis d’Angerville for as long as we’ve loved Burgundy and while there are other excellent expressions of Volnay, for us the identity of the village is encapsulated here. A list of their holdings touches all of the village’s great terroirs, including one of the most picturesque vineyards in Volnay and a monopole of the estate, Clos des Ducs.

The domaine started bottling its own production in the 1920s after the current Marquis’ grandfather, Sem d’Angerville, stood up to the negociants’ corrupt blending practices. As a result and in defiance of them, he became one of the first Burgundy domains to estate bottle their wines. Today the estate is led by Guillaume d’Angerville and his daughter Margot, farmed immaculately, and is producing some of the best wines in the entire Cote d’Or.

"The 2022 Volnay Clos des Ducs ler Cru is another to add to the canon of outstanding wines from this monopole. It has retained the bouquet with mineral-laden dark berry fruit, perhaps less tea-leaf scents and more of the forest floor. Very well defined. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannins, a little more grip than it demonstrated from barrel with a structured finish. It is unapologetically classic in style, far more reserved and less fleshy than its peers in this vintage, but it exudes breeding." Vinous 95