Domaine Pattes Loup (Thomas Pico) Butteaux, Chablis Premier Cru, France 2020

Domaine Pattes Loup is one of the most exciting estates to emerge from Chablis in recent years (Pattes Loup means "wolf paws"). Thomas Pico started his tiny estate in Courgis in 2005, just outside of the village of Chablis, under the wings of his friends and fellow organic Chablisiens, Alice and Olivier de Moor. He inherited 2.4 hectares of vines from his family’s estate, which historically produced correct, but uninspiring wines. Motivated to take a qualitative leap in a new direction, and against the wishes of his father, Thomas immediately began a program of strict yield control and a conversion to organic viticulture. This is a rarity in Chablis and a feat of extreme diligence in this often in hospitable vine-growing region.

Thomas Pico is a rising star in the appellation and is taking great risks to farm organically in an inhospitable growing climate. The wines are concentrated and opulent, yet racy and intensely saline. All three 1er Crus are extremely limited.