Fattoria Cigliano di Sopra Vigneto Branca, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG, Italy 2021

Despite its historical proximity to Florence and its role in making some of the most well-known Tuscan wines of the last century, San Casciano in Val di Pesa is not necessarily an appellation of Chianti Classico that leaps to mind. Perhaps this is because it has in recent decades been dominated by large producers who bought fruit, thus neutralizing differences in terroir and in the cellar. Or because it is lower lying, with soils that tend to defy the simplistic distinction made between albarese and galestro in Chianti Classico, as large river rocks appear amidst sandstone macigno and clays before reaching limestone bedrock.

"Cigliano di Sopra 2021 Chianti Classico Riserva Vigneto Branca comes in at a higher price point compared to the excellent "annata" wine, but the quality is as impressive here. The main difference between the two wines is aging potential, and of course this wine is poised for the longer cellar life of the two thanks to its extra textural tightness and structure. The Vigna Branca was planted in 1972, and you get old-vine fruit with the added complexity that comes with advanced plant age. However, the bouquet is very similar in terms of freshness and transparency. It offers lively notes of wild berry, rose, blood orange and crushed stone. This Riserva is a shade darker in appearance. Production is 2,050 bottles, 49 magnums and six double magnums. This is the first vintage that this wine is designated as a Chianti Classico Riserva. It was an IGT Toscana wine before this year." Wine Advocate 95