Francois Cotat Sancerre Les Caillottes, Loire, France 2024

François must be one of the most unique producers in Sancerre, using minimal intervention in the cellar in order to make wines that are absolutely expressive of their terroir. This has even brought him into conflict: in some vintages his wines haven’t met particular criteria necessary to be classified as Sancerre, and have had to be sold as Vin de France. What is constant, however, is these are some of the finest Sauvignon Blancs made anywhere in the world.

This comes from parcels around the village of Chavignol, on the chalky limestone soils. It is the most approachable and early drinking of the Cotat range, but even this will improve over many years. It is juicy and long, concentrated but weightless.