Michelini i Mufatto 'Encrucijada', Bierzo, Spain 2021

The Bierzo D.O. was established in 1989. Today there are only 74 commercial wineries in the region, and not all export to the USA. There are 5,800 acres under vines, which are fragmented tiny plots of old vines on steep hillside and hilltop locations. Mencia makes up around 75% of all plantings. The soils are primarily slate and granite on the slopes with sand and clay near the valley floor. The appellation is influenced by the Atlantic Ocean while protected from extreme weather by the Leon and Cantabrian mountain ranges.

Encrucijada is their grand cru single parcel wine. Grapes are foot-treaded. 100% whole clusters are fermented with native yeast in clay amphorae through gentle maceration, neither carrying out pressing nor pumping over techniques. A five-month maceration in contact with the pomace and pulp is followed by an 18-month aging in a 1,500-liter oval fudre.

"All of the wines from 2021 have considerably less alcohol than the counterparts from 2020, reflecting the much cooler condition of the year. The 2021 Encrucijada has a moderate 12% alcohol and retained very good acidity. It's perfumed and elegant; the plants are happier after being recovered from being abandoned, and the cool vintage lifted the wine up. It's fresh, tightly wound, very tasty and fine, with elegant tannins. It has to be the most elegant and balanced vintage of Encrucijada so far." Wine Advocate 97