Roagna Dolcetto d'Alba, Piedmont, Italy 2024

Roagna’s 2024 Dolcetto d’Alba is a perfect example of why this estate takes even its “simple” wines so seriously. Old-vine Dolcetto from historic, limestone-rich vineyards is given an almost absurdly traditional élevage, resulting in a wine that is vibrant, floral and incredibly pure. Black cherry, blackberry, violet and wild herbs jump from the glass, followed by crunchy dark fruit, lively acidity and silky tannins. At just 13.5% alcohol, it is fresh, energetic and ridiculously drinkable, but with far more depth and character than most Dolcetto. This is the kind of bottle you open for dinner and suddenly realize you should have bought a case.

93 James Suckling