Ulysse Collin 'Le Jardin d'Ulysse' Extra Brut, Champagne, France 2017

Olivier Collin is at the forefront of the Champagne grower-producer movement, proving that single-vineyard expressions in Champagne can rival the complexity and prestige of Burgundy or Bordeaux terroirs. His Champagnes are benchmarks for precision, intensity, and authenticity.

"Readers may have wondered about the delay in releasing Le Jardin d'Ulysse, but the long wait since the 2016-base release has been worth it. Ulysse Collin's new NV Le Jardin d'Ulysse (2017 base) was disgorged in February 2024 after 72 months on the lees, adding an extra year of aging compared to previous renditions, resulting in a more complete wine. Based on the 2017 vintage, it’s a rather unique version of this cuvée, as it’s produced almost entirely from Chardonnay (almost, because there are small percentages of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier in the 10% reserve wines from 2016). The decision came from issues with rot and damage affecting both Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir in 2017, so Collin decided to harvest only Chardonnay to preserve the quality. The result is indeed impressive, as the wine opens in the glass with a deep bouquet of crisp orchard fruit, beeswax and pine resin. On the palate, it’s medium-bodied and chiseled, structured around chalky extract and electric acidity, concluding with a long, saline finish. Olivier Collin has delivered a brilliant third rendition of Le Jardin d'Ulysse, the most seamless and coherent in relation to the rest of the range. As always, it derives from a mostly north-facing site (with 30% facing south) next to the winery in Congy, and it is the last plot they harvest." Wine Advocate 98