Ulysse Collin 'Les Enfers' Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut, Champagne, France 2017

Olivier Collin is at the forefront of the Champagne grower-producer movement, proving that single-vineyard expressions in Champagne can rival the complexity and prestige of Burgundy or Bordeaux terroirs. His Champagnes are benchmarks for precision, intensity, and authenticity.

"One of the finest wines of the year, Ulysse Collin’s NV Blanc de Blancs Les Enfers (2017 base) 72 months is primarily based on the 2017 vintage, with 20% reserve wines from 2016. Disgorged in February 2024 with 2.4 grams per liter dosage after a full six years on the lees, Olivier Collin seems to have settled on the sur lattes aging period that satisfies him, though who knows what he could do next, as this is a domaine that is always evolving. Readers will remember that Collin initially produced pure vintage expressions with relatively short lees aging, a stark reminder that it has not been an easy journey to its contemporary success. Opening with a kaleidoscopically complex bouquet, the wine bursts from the glass with aromas of buttered toast, peeled almond and smoke. With enormous concentration, deep and intensely mineral in its core, the wine is structured around racy acids and chalky extract, support for freshness and concludes with a long, saline finish. It will be possible to find both 60-month and 72-month renditions of this base, but the new standard for this superb, age-worthy cuvée is now set at 72 months. As always, Les Enfers derives from a 0.63-hectare east-facing site in Côteaux du Petit Morin, overlooking the village of Congy, just five meters away from Les Roises." Wine Advocate 100